Bedding

Your puppy needs a comfortable bed, so buy a bed big enough for it to grow into, and stretch out in. There are many types of good bedding for your puppy.

Most puppies love snuggling into a piece of ‘vetbed’ or similar. This is a synthetic simulated sheepskin, which is hygienic, machine washable, totally non-allergic and relatively resistant to chewing. It can also help to prevent pressure sores on bigger dogs. Buy two pieces so you use one while washing and drying the other.

Puppy crates, play pens and child-gates

Some dogs love having their own ‘four poster beds’ and many puppy owners find these useful for confining the puppy and keeping it safe and out of trouble when it is alone, rather like putting a baby in a cot or play pen.

When ordering a crate for your puppy, buy one big enough for it to lie in stretched out and standing up in when it is fully grown. Make sure that the mesh is not too big as puppies may get their mouths caught.  Put some bedding inside and tie some toys in the far end of the crate so the puppy has to go in there to play with them. Gently place your puppy in there whenever it falls asleep. Leave occasional treats in the crate for the puppy to find, so the puppy learns to love going in there. Do not shut the door until your puppy is comfortable being in there, and start closing the door when you are feeding it and when it has fallen asleep. Make sure you stay around to let it out the moment it wakes up or finishes its meal.

You can gradually increase the time the puppy stays in the crate, and initially this should be whilst you are in the room with it.

Make sure it has recently emptied its bladder and bowels before it enters and do not leave your puppy in the crate or puppy pen for more than a couple of hours during the daytime. Although most puppies are content to sleep in their crate overnight, they get very distressed if they have to foul near their beds, so you must be prepared to get out of your bed to let them out if they need to toilet during the night. If they have fouled inside the crate, you must clean it out immediately or the puppy will hate being in the crate.

Never use the crate as a sin-bin or you will teach your puppy to resent it. Always remove the puppy’s collar when in the crate in case it gets caught up on it.

 Collars

Choose a comfortable collar that is suitable for the breed, size and age of puppy. Puppies grow rapidly and collars should be checked almost daily for condition and fit. These should not be so loose that they can slip over your puppy’s head or so tight that you cannot slip two fingers underneath.

Micro chipping

It makes complete sense to have your puppy micro chipped as an extra safety precaution, so that if it is lost or stolen, when found (without its collar) it can be scanned by an authorized agent such as a vet, dog warden or rescue centre.

Leads

Choose a lead that is suitable for the size and breed of your puppy, not too long, too short or too heavy. A good rope lead is both strong and comfortable on your hands. Chain leads can hurt your hands, but may be useful if you have a puppy that likes to chew or carry its lead in its mouth. Nylon leads are strong, but can hurt your hands. Whatever type you choose, make sure you attach it to the ‘D ring’ of the collar and not onto the split ring that attaches the identity disc to the collar, as this is not strong enough to take the weight of your dog.

Many people still prefer the traditional leather lead which requires to be oiled or saddle soaped to be kept clean and supple. Particular attention should be paid to the catch/ clip which must be strong and not liable to break or straighten.

Poo Bags

You are required by law  to clear up after your dog in public areas and dispose of the bag in an appropriate bin, so you will need a supply of poo bags, sandwich bags or nappy sacks to take with you whenever you are out with your puppy.

Interesting toys

It is very important that your puppy has a range of appropriate toys to play with, otherwise it might chew on your things, instead of its own. Chew toys also provide mental stimulation, help to keep your dog’s teeth clean and allow it to exercise its jaws. Select toys for your puppy carefully – some may be too small and might choke your puppy whilst other items might splinter.

You should also have toys that you can play with interactively, like balls on ropes and Frisbees, so that you can have fun with your puppy.

Do not let your puppy play with sticks, golf or squash balls. All these things can easily get stuck in the throat and cause damage or even death. For this reason, it is important to bear in mind the size of your puppy and the size of the chew or toy you decide to purchase. If a chew becomes too small after a prolonged period of chewing, do not take the risk and throw the chew away.

Food and water bowls

You will need separate (non-tip) bowls for water and food. These should be raised up off the floor for tall dogs. Make sure fresh water is always available for your puppy.

Car harness, traveling crate or dog guard

A dog should travel either behind a dog guard, secured with a car seat harness or, ideally, in a crate or fixed car cage. A crate or cage gives a dog its own space and ensures both safety and comfort. If you have space for a crate then this provides a safe haven for your puppy in the car. There is nothing worse than seeing a dog squashed in a car with luggage piled up around it.

Accustom your puppy to car travel with very short trips at first ideally when the puppy is tired so it will go to sleep. If the puppy is car sick try fixing the crate on the back seat as the car sways far more at the back which can cause travel sickness.

Grooming equipment

Short coated dogs need to be groomed regularly, especially when they are moulting as their short hairs get can get stuck into everything! Use a rubber toothed brush or a short bristle brush, which massages the skin and works out the loose hair.

Breeds with medium to long coats or thick undercoats need gentle de-tangling every day to keep them knot free. The main problem areas that need the most attention tend to be behind the ears, between the toes, under the feet, in the armpits, the backs of the legs and around the tail. Some dogs will need to have their beards or hair around their eyes cleaned regularly.

If you are not showing your puppy you may wish to trim these areas back. However, use round ended scissors so that you do not accidentally stab your puppy, and get someone to help you if your puppy will not stand still, otherwise ask an experienced groomer to do this for you.

If you intend to exhibit your puppy in the show ring it may need to have its coat trimmed into a special shape, or need hand stripping or clipping. Your breeder, a groomer, ringcraft class or breed club can advise you on the best way to achieve this. They can also advise you on the best type of brushes and combs to use.

Always brush your puppy slowly and gently. Gradually introduce the concept of grooming in very short sessions. If your puppy tries to bite the brush, put some taste deterrent on the brush so it learns not to bother.

Some dogs will need to have their nails trimmed if they get too long. If your dog has dew-claws (like little thumbs on the inside of its ‘wrists’) they should be checked frequently as these do not get worn down naturally and can grow in a circle and cut into the flesh. You can learn to trim the nails yourself or have a vet or groomer do it for you.

In particular, dogs with white or sparse coats can be susceptible to sunburn so use a high factor sun cream on their ears and other exposed areas in hot sunny weather.

Doggy toothpaste and toothbrush

Gum disease is far too common in middle-aged dogs and can lead to all sorts of health problems, so it pays to brush your puppy’s teeth. Use special canine toothpaste, which comes in tasty flavors and does not foam (unlike human toothpaste) with a special rubber thimble for dogs’ teeth.

Dog shampoo

Dogs only need to be bathed every few months unless they have been swimming or have rolled in something smelly. Use a dog shampoo and put a non-slip mat down if using the bath. Towel drying your puppy is important and will get it used to being dried when it comes home wet from a walk.

Anti-pulling aids

There are lots of devices (mostly harnesses and head collars) that claim to help stop dogs from pulling on the lead. Some of these rub, squeeze or pinch the dog, and tend not to be tolerated well, so shop around and make sure that your puppy is comfortable wearing it. You should allow your puppy time to become accustomed to any aid you decide on. However, if you ensure correct training from the start, your puppy should not pull on the lead.

Outdoor kennels and dog runs

Dogs are sociable animals and most of them prefer to live indoors, and can get pretty miserable if left outside. However, if your puppy spends most of its time outside, then you need to provide it with an enclosed run and a specially designed kennel, or it will wreck your garden. Providing toys is particularly important if your puppy is left alone for periods of time.  They can be useful in providing a space for the puppy to call its own.  It will also allow the puppy to become less reliant on constant companionship and avoid separation anxiety in the future.

Clothing

Some short coated or recently clipped dogs really feel the cold, so may benefit from wearing a fitted jumper or coat when out on walks. Some long coated dogs may benefit from protective clothing to keep them clean and dry in winter weather. Make sure it fits properly and is well tolerated by your puppy. Never make your puppy wear clothes indoors.

 

Exercise

Puppies need much less exercise than fully-grown dogs. If you over-exercise a growing puppy you can overtire it and damage its developing joints, causing early arthritis. A good rule of thumb is a ratio of five minutes exercise per month of age (up to twice a day) until the puppy is fully grown, i.e. 15 minutes when three months old, 20 minutes when four months old etc. Once they are fully grown, they can go out for much longer.

It is important that puppies and dogs go out for exercise every day in a safe and secure area, or they may become frustrated. Time spent in the garden (however large) is no substitute for

exploring new environments and socializing with other dogs. (Make sure your puppy is trained to recall so that you are confident that he will return to you when called).

You should never exercise your dog on a full stomach as this can contribute to bloat.

 

Feeding your puppy

Puppy Diet

Puppies grow 20 times faster than adult dogs and so require a special diet to aid their physical development.  A specially formulated growth food is recommended which needs to be fed at evenly spaced intervals to avoid over stretching their small stomachs.  A responsible breeder will have given you advice about your puppy’s diet.

Feed your puppy four meals a day up until the age of four months, and then reduce its feed to three meals a day until it is six months old, when you can change to two meals a day, and keep it on this regime for the rest of its life.

It is better not to leave food down (so throw away any uneaten food after 20 minutes) and not to give your puppy any variety, which could cause havoc with its digestion and toilet training regime.  However, make sure that water is always available to your puppy, so never take its water bowl away.

There are many different feeding regimes to choose from: dry complete diets, semi-moist or tinned food with or without biscuit mixer, and home-made food. Within this, there are many different qualities.

The most suitable diet should be easily digested and produce dark brown, firm, formed stools.

If your puppy produces soft or light stools or has wind or diarrhea, then the diet may not suit your puppy or it might have some kind of digestive problem, so consult your vet for advice.

Please remember that stability in the diet will help maintain good digestion. Any change in diet should be made very gradually over at least a week to avoid upset and you should try a new diet for at least 10 days before making any further changes.

Dry complete foods

There is a wide range of dry complete foods on the market and the quality varies widely. To get the best out of your puppy’s development choose a food specially designed for puppies and buy the best you can afford. The ‘premium’ dry puppy foods tend to have the best quality ingredients. Many are based on chicken and rice or corn, and suit most puppies really well.

Although these foods may appear more expensive to buy, you do not need to feed the large amounts you would with a lower grade food, so many of them actually work out to cost the same, if not less!

Some puppies are not accustomed to complete dry foods immediately after weaning but will normally grow to like them with time. If your puppy does not seem to like eating dry complete and this is what you wish to feed you can try soaking the food in a little warm water to soften or mix in a little tinned puppy food, gradually reducing the quantity until he is fully weaned and accepts dry complete.

Semi-moist and tinned foods

As with complete dry foods, tinned foods and semi-moist foods can vary in quality. Again choose a good quality food with an easily digestible recipe i.e. chicken and rice and choose a specialist puppy food which is nutritionally complete (i.e. does not require additional foods to be added to it). As before it is best to avoid changes in your puppy's diet so if you find a product that works for your puppy, stick to it.

Home-made food

Puppies need the best possible diet whilst they are growing up, as even a slight imbalance may harm their development and growth. As it is very difficult to get this balance right, you are probably better off choosing from one of the tried and tested commercial diets.

Any change in diet should be made very gradually over at least a week to avoid upset and you should try a new diet for at least 10 days before making any further changes.

Food sensitivities and intolerances

CURRENTLY WE ARE FEEDING RAW DIET FOR OUR DOGUES

Some dogs appear to be sensitive or intolerant to certain ingredients and additives and this can cause a variety of problems. Common symptoms include: lethargy, aggressive or hyperactive behavior, chronic skin and ear problems, light to mid-brown loose bulky stools or diarrhea, slime and jelly being passed with the stools and flatulence, bloating and weight gain or loss. In extreme cases they can get colitis (slime and blood in their stools) so consult your vet if this happens.

As with children, the most common food intolerances appear to be colorings, sugars, wheat, milk and Soya. Obviously not all puppies are sensitive to these things, but if the symptoms keep re-occurring, you might do well to check this out and ask your vet for advice.

If you suspect a food intolerance you should avoid giving your puppy any foods or treats containing any suspect ingredients for a month or two, and then reintroduce each ingredient, one at a time, and watch for the return of any physical or behavioral changes. You can use some of its food (from its daily allowance) as rewards.

Treats

Treating is a good way to reward your dog during training and encourage the behavior you want. There are a wide variety of prepared and natural treats on the market which vary hugely in quality. Some commercial treats have lots of sugar, colorings, milk products and fat in them. Even ‘doggy choc’ or ‘low fat yoghurt drops’ can contain sugars or lactose (milk sugar) so always check the ingredients label.

Good quality prepared treats have been developed with dogs dietary needs in mind.

However, all treats should be given sparingly, never more than 15% of the total calorie intake. If used regularly reduce the amount of main meal food your dog is receiving in order to avoid obesity. Some chew treats have proven ability to help prevent dental diseases, but again check the label to ensure you are getting a genuine product.

Real chocolate is poisonous to dogs and can cause liver damage and even be fatal, so never give your dog any chocolate, or leave any lying around for it to find and eat, especially at Christmas time.

Avoid giving your puppy any sweet biscuits or sugary treats which are bad for its teeth as well as its waistline, and can cause sugar ‘highs’ and ‘lows’. Stick to prepared treats and desiccated liver tablets which tend to be much more popular than boring bits of doggie biscuit.

Puppy Feeding Top Tips

·                 Clean fresh water should always be available. Dogs eating wet food (i.e.: canned) will receive moisture through their food and therefore require less water than dogs eating dry food. However, extra water should always be made available.

·                 Owners should not refill half empty bowls, but ensure that fresh food is always provided at each meal time. This is particularly true in the hot weather when food left in bowls can attract flies and other insects.

·                 Half full cans of dog food should be kept covered in the fridge, but allowed to stand until the food is up to room temperature before feeding.

·                 There are two different types of dog food manufactured," complete" and "complementary", clearly marked on the label. A complete food can be fed as a sole source of nutrition and is available as both canned and dry food. A complementary food is designed to accompany the complete food and should not be used as the only source of daily nutrition.

·                 Avoid feeding table scraps, these can upset the balance of nutrients provided by commercial prepared dog food.

·                 Treats are a great way of bonding with your dog, but ensure that they are specially manufactured for dogs. Treats will contribute to the dogs daily dietary intake and owners should take them into account and remember to adjust feeding at meal times accordingly.

·                 Puppies have high energy requirements, but small stomachs - therefore owners should feed small meals frequently throughout the day. Follow the feeding instructions on the packaging.

·                 A healthy, fit dog is a happy dog! Owners should be able to feel their dogs ribs, but not see them. Always try to feed to maintain this condition.

·                 Owners should avoid any sudden change of their dogs diet. A change from one food to another should be done gradually with the new food increased over a number of days until that is the only food fed. The same goes for a switch from one brand to another - any sudden change may upset the dogs digestive system.

 

 

Puberty

Puppies normally reach puberty any time from six months old and their elevated hormone levels can adversely affect their behavior, so seek help if you are having any problems. This behavior will not ‘automatically’ be resolved by neutering despite advice you may receive to the contrary. Try not to worry – it soon passes!

Bitches are normally ‘in season’ for three weeks (and are fertile during this time) so they should not be taken outside (other than the garden) or allowed to mix with male dogs. You can tell your bitch is in season when her vulva swells and she exudes a discharge which may be blood tinged. This should happen about every six months, throughout her life.

As male dogs reach puberty they start cocking their legs, and you may observe an increased interest in other dogs, independence, mounting behavior and ‘macho’ behavior with dogs and/or people.

 

 

Toilet training and socialization

Essential Puppy Training and Toilet Training

Every puppy needs to be taught good manners and have constructive lessons in basic control. This includes responding to its name, how to greet and behave politely around people and dogs, coming back when called, walking nicely on the lead, sit, down and stay on command, and allowing itself to be groomed and examined by you and your vet. As a dog owner you also need to learn what laws affect you and your dog.

Dog training classes

Most owners can benefit from attending good training classes, and training in the company of other dogs is very useful because of the realistic distractions this involves. Ideally, you should start your classes as soon as your puppy’s vaccinations are complete, but classes can be invaluable for older dogs too!

It is a misconception that training a dog takes away its personality, on the contrary a trained dog is a content and happy one.

There are lots of schools of thought on dog training and it is important that you find the right approach for you and your puppy. Go and visit several classes first (without your puppy) to make sure you have made the right choice. Puppies can take part in the Puppy Foundation section of the Kennel Club Good Citizen Dog Scheme which provides a progression to a well trained dog.

Finding the best dog training club

Before enrolling with a dog training club it can be beneficial to attend a session without your dog and decide whether this is the right environment for you and your puppy.

Things you may wish to consider include:

·                 Do you like what you see – are the trainers friendly, are people happy and enjoying training their dogs?

·                 Are the dogs happily focused on their human family?

·                 Are the instructors giving lots of encouragement and information to all attendees?

·                 Are the instructors maintaining a controlled, safe environment for everyone?

·                 Are instructors treating everyone fairly and meeting the needs of the whole group?

Really important training tips:

·                 Start as you mean to go on. If you are always consistent you will avoid confusing your puppy.

·                 Puppies have a very short attention span so train for short spells on a regular basis.

·                 Keep it short and keep it simple, but most of all, keep it fun!

·                 Puppies respond better to cheerful voice tones, rather than to threatening orders.

·                 Gentle play builds trust and a strong bond between you and your puppy as well as making training fun.

·                 Patience is the KEY ingredient in dog training. If you try to rush things you will only get frustrated and confuse your puppy.

·                 Keep it interesting: cultivate a range of different rewards incorporating play, fuss, praise, treats and toys. This will stop both of you from getting bored.

Puppy Toilet Training

Toilet training should be quite a simple process, as long as you take the time and trouble to get into a good routine.

Initially, you will have to build your routine around your puppy’s needs, and these are reliably predictable when they are very young.

Puppies need to urinate immediately after waking up, so you need to be there to take your puppy straight into the garden without any delay.

Eating its meal stimulates its digestive system, and puppies normally urinate within fifteen minutes of eating, and defecate within half an hour of eating (although this might vary slightly with each individual).

Puppies have very poor bladder control, and need to urinate at least every hour or two. They can urinate spontaneously when they get excited, so take your puppy out frequently if it has been active, playing or exploring.

You may find it useful to keep a record of when your puppy eats sleeps, urinates and defecates. A simple diary list will do.

Repeat cue words like ‘wee wees’ and ‘poo poos’ or ‘be busy’ and ‘be clean’ while the puppy is actually urinating or defecating. Use different words for each action so that you will be able to prompt the puppy later on.

Always go with your puppy into the garden so you are there to reward and attach the cue words to the successful actions!

Fortunately, puppies are creatures of habit, so as long as you introduce the garden to your puppy as its toilet area early on, you should be able to avoid most of the common pitfalls.

Toilet training errors

Unfortunately there are many reasons why ‘toilet training’ might not go as smoothly as it could, so make sure you do not make any of the following mistakes...

·                 Over-feeding.

·                 Feeding an unsuitable diet or giving a variety of foods.

·                 Not feeding at regular times.

·                 Feeding at the wrong times (which could cause overnight defecation).

·                 Punishing the puppy for its indoor accidents (which can make it scared of toileting in front of you – even outside).

·                 Feeding salty foods (e.g. stock from cubes) which makes them drink more.

·                 Using ammonia based cleaning compounds (which smell similar to urine).

·                 Expecting the puppy to tell you when it needs to go out; this is unrealistic, so it is better to take them out at regular intervals.

·                 Leaving the back door open for the puppy to come and go as it pleases (a puppy will think that the garden is an adventure playground, rather than a toilet area. Also, what is a puppy meant to do when the weather gets cold, and it is faced with a closed back door?).

·                 Leaving the puppy on its own too long, so that it is forced to go indoors (which sets a bad precedent, or even a habit of going indoors).

·                 Mistakenly associating the words ‘good girl’ or ‘good boy’ when they toilet, as opposed to the specific cue words. Guess what could happen the next time you praise your dog?

·                 Access to rugs or carpet (which are nice and absorbent – just like grass).

·                 Laziness on your part, resulting in more wee indoors than outdoors.

·                 Leaving the puppy alone in the garden, so you are not there to reward it for going outdoors… how is it meant to learn that it is more popular and advantageous going outdoors, if you are not there to show your approval?

·                 Submissive or excited urination on greeting (if this occurs, take your puppy outside before you greet it and tone down your greeting so it is less exciting or overwhelming).

·                 It is unfair to expect your puppy to go right through the night when it is very young.

·                 Sleeping the puppy in a crate or puppy pen can help with house training but you should let it out in the garden to relieve itself during the night.

Teaching your puppy to toilet out on a walk

Many owners appear disappointed that their young puppy will not toilet when out on a walk, yet relieves itself the second it gets back home. This is because the puppy has been taught to toilet only at home (hopefully in its garden), and being creatures of habit, they often wait until they have returned home before evacuating their bladder and/ or bowels.

To break this habit, you will have to get up very early one morning (when you have plenty of time), and get your puppy out on a walk before it has had its morning wee. You should not bring it home until it has been forced to go out of desperation.

If however, you are unsuccessful, and your puppy has not toileted, then take it immediately into the garden on your return, or you risk it relieving itself indoors.

Puppy socialization

Firstly, it is vital that you are patient with your puppy – do not expect too much too quickly as all young animals need time to learn what we expect of them.

·                 Socialize your puppy

Puppies need to meet and have pleasant encounters with a wide variety of adults, children and other animals.  Begin when they are very young, taking care not to overwhelm them.  Do a little every day, especially during the early weeks.  Attending a well-run puppy training class will help your puppy sociable with other dogs.  However, please remember that your puppy could be unprotected from some canine diseases if it has not been fully vaccinated – speak to your vet for more information.

·                 Educate and teach good manners

Puppies need to know where their boundaries lie just as children do.  Teach them gently but firmly what is acceptable and what is not.

·                 Use positive, effective training

Reward based training can begin as soon as your puppy has settled into the household.  Use positive methods for all education, from house-training to coming back when called.

·                 Help your puppy find its place in the hierarchy

Puppies need to learn their place in the human pack.  Strong-willed puppies need to learn that they cannot have their own way all the time and what you want must come first.

·                 Teach your puppy to be left alone

Pack animals like to be with others and our pet dogs need to be taught to tolerate being alone.  Begin with short sessions when your puppy is young and build up to longer absences gradually.

·                 Cope with chewing

Puppies chew while teething and during adolescence.  Provide plenty of suitable chews and change them often.  Teach your puppy what to chew and what to leave alone.  Try not to leave your puppy in a place where it can damage your things or itself.  Prevention is better than cure.

·                 Be prepared for adolescence

Adolescence can be a difficult time during which your puppy’s behavior may deteriorate considerably.  Try not to worry – it soon passes!

·                 Don’t be afraid to ask

If you are experiencing difficulties, ask your vet or other experienced people for advice.  Problems with puppies are usually easily solved so ask for advice sooner rather than later.